The day started with another amazing array of breakfast dishes, enough to feed a small village. The trouble was once again the earliest we could get it was 9am and we were seated next to a tour group who are doing yoga morning and night and walking about 5-6 kms a day. They also were not happy with the spread on offer, wanting espresso coffee and toast. After discussing the trail with their tour guide we decided the gruelling up and downhill was going to be too much for Danny’s knee, possibly splitting it open every step. We made arrangements to go with the luggage and get out at Alinca knowing there was some road walking for about 5 kms. The car was due in 1 hour which was just as well as the hotel had forgotten to do our washing the night before and we had to take it semi dried. We went out to get in the car oh oh trouble it’s a small Corolla or similar, no the bloke keeps walking to a 4 wheel drive, oh okay, no he keeps walking to a beaten up old red thing with bald tyres and no springs. There was great contemplation about how to fit the luggage but with a bit of twine the boot was closed – well sort of. The driver had brought along his friend for company so we then had to fit 4 in the car. Danny tried squeezing into the back seat but no couldn’t fit. He got prime front row but conveniently left his pack on my lap with me. At least he got a seat belt. The 2 men got in. They haven’t been told about parmolive gold over here. Just as well the windows were stuck permanently open. It was an hour of panic. Firstly we were skidding uphill as there was not enough engine power on those bald tires to get up the hills. A few handbreak starts and we were on our way, with several run ups for other hills. Then over the mountains and around hairpins on a one lane wide road with traffic in both directions. The cars seem to play chicken to see who is going to give way first. I was probably lucky that I really couldn’t see through 2 packs on my lap but I could see the knuckles on Danny’s hand hanging on for dear life so I knew it was pretty terrible. 50 mins of trying not to panic. We off loaded and tipped him $20 for the joy ride and mumbled something about putting it towards a new re-tred.
We did manage to walk about 5kms on a road and came across a village with a park bench so decided sit and have some fruit. It wasn’t long before we both felt like we were being bitten and decided it was probably fleas from the cats and dogs coming to check the strangers out. We moved on.
Soon after our driver went by giving us a toot, while we walked to the next village which advertised a shop. We thought we would have an ice cream but they were all gone and the freezer not working but the lady did offer us a can of beans.
We crossed the road and started on the final section to Sidyma which was a long uphill sometimes on a pebbled road but mainly picking our way steeply over steep rocky paths. The markers were few and far and it was really hard to find the trail as it was just a series of goat trails and there were lots of goats around. It was hard. We both needed lots of pauses to get the heart rate down and the jelly legs to settle. Thank god for the gps. It actually shows if we are about 10 mts off the trail and we were constantly doubling back. We made it passed the famous ruins but I was beyond caring. We made it inti Sidyma and a mumma came out to greet us and point us in the direction of Fatima at Sidyma House. It was a short cut which was a long cut as it was another maize of rock walled tracks. Fatima runs a house with 3 rooms and showed us the best. It’s a tiny shack in the back yard. We have a net curtain over door to keep the mosquitoes out and similar over the window but no glass. The roosters a locked in a cage 5 mts away but I wouldn’t put it pass one of the cat to jump in. There is an outdoor table to eat at. We have asked her to pack us lunch tomorrow as it looks to be 8;hours of walking and no shops. Heavens only know what we will get for dinner, breakfast or lunch, it will be an adventure. Just like the welcoming drink was an adventure. We were offered tea, thought we had asked for water and ended up with a salted yoghurt drink. I somehow don’t think Fatima runs to 2 beers and my guess is that it might be goat on the menu.










