This morning we met Aysegul our tour company owner. We were staying in her parents guesthouse and she came to pick us up and drop us at our next starting point in Cavdir. Once again an extremely hot day after a hot night where the temperature didn’t drop below 27C. we were however able to get a reasonable early start and after a stop by the shop for some snacks we were able to start walking at about 8.30. Asysegul told us that most walkers don’t start until after 9am and we were a bit of a rarity.
Our first stretch was through a grave yard and we have actually seen quite a few so far. I’ve frequently wondered how on earth they dig the graves in this hard rocky ground. It must be a horrible job.
Next we were up and onto a cliff edge looking out over the valley which they call a delta so I can only assume there is a river out there. The valley is covered in hothouses. I gather the land is very fertile but the best farming intensity has been gained by building hothouses to increase the crops of mainly vegetables. Aysegul informed us that the hothouses are the major employer in the region.
We soon realised we were on the aqueduct which goes for miles and we will also be on it tomorrow. Much of it is on the cliff edge and in parts it’s crumbling. Sometimes you are walking in the middle of it (it’s full of clay and limestone). Sometimes you are on the stone edge. We had to cross a bridge and in the photos it looks wide and stable but it wasn’t always and several steps were wobbly rocks. The trial goes along the aqueduct and is always branching out where the aqueduct has disintegrated and then back. Once again we were not only watching every step but also searching for markers. It’s slow progress.
Soon after we made a shortcut around a mosque we came across the path which was a channel in the old aqueduct. This was more recent, probably only 1000 years old rather than over 2000 years. In parts it was covered in foliage, and once again a lot of detours. The foliage is harsh. There are holly bushes, prickly acacias and thorny roses. Our arms and legs are covered in scratches and tomorrow might be a day for long pants.
The channel ended at a stream of gushing water, narrow but fast flowing. Several farmers are piping the water to their plots and houses. We were able to fill our water bottles, which once again were running low. It’s a very strange feeling. We are drinking a lot but we never seem able to quench our thirst. Usually small sips and often does it for me but this time it’s not working. I’m constantly thirsty.
A local farmer was sawing wood near where we filled our water bottles. Of course no English and quite disappointed that Danny didn’t have a smoke to give him. Nevertheless he decided to show us the way which was walking up the creek for about 300 mts. Danny graciously gave him a couple of coins for his efforts which he accepted but I realised they were Euros so not really sure how farmer joe will go spending those.
After traversing another ravine we were back on hilly rocky terrain and needing lots of rest stops as we picked our way through the rocks with lots of up and downs and lots of looking for markers. Eventually we were out on the road and on our way to our guest house at Uzumlu. It’s a nice guest house run by a nice family. Once again we are the only guests. The son works in software testing and is working from home and speaks very good English. Mum and Dad are both retired and spend half the year here running the guest house and the winter in Antalya where their house is heated by gas which is cheaper than the electricity used to heat this house. Once again a lovely pool which we used however I rather gather the family don’t drink so a cold beer is unlikely to be on the menu. The town is known for its grapes and wine and apparently there is a wine bar in town but I’m not that desperate to walk down another hill into town to try it out. Water will have to do, or every house offers coke and Fanta which I’m really not that desperate to have either.
Tonight we really will be eating around the table with the family as there is not separate dining area. I’m sure it will be an interesting and delightful experience. I bought a box of chocolate macadamia with me and have decided I’m giving them to the first host to offer me Turkish delight. Maybe tonight might be my lucky night.
Nope. No Turkish delight. No dessert. They have soup every evening all year round. Tonight’s was lentil, then salad then chicken with pilaf and cabbage rolls and green peppers and red capsicums stuffed with rice. Then Turkish coffee
Jane treks Lycian Way 2022 