We were on the road just before 8.30 which was almost a record early start, and straight away it was an uphill paved road back to the main track. Although it wasn’t too steep it was enough to remind our muscles that they had really taken a pounding the day before. The trail took us to a farm house and we were in someone’s backyard. We were lost within 10 minutes. someone yelled from a window to go around the other side and through a gate, over a little bridge and we were on our way again. It was mainly a meandering road through forests and valleys. Quite spectacular views but all was covered in mist and even though the sun was up, we knew photos would not show what we were seeing. I was also having lots of trouble with the GPS app. Every time I took a photo and then reopened the app I would lose our blue dot indicating where we were and the only way I’ve managed to work out how to get it back is to shut down the phone and restart everything. It’s a real pain as sometimes the ground is too rough to be walking and watching the phone at the same time.
The road was once a proper road so in many parts very even. It’s likely it would have been well used connecting the villages but in many parts it’s either been washed away or has suffered landslides and it’s been reduced in parts to less than a metre wide. It seems they have given up trying to repair it and instead just built a new road for cars further up the mountain.
We made the 7 kms into Gedelme in less that 2 hours, very different from the day before. On approach to the village there were two huge houses possibly the biggest we have seen but the village only offered a very run down store and of course a large mosque. Muesli bars and biscuits were the best on offer. The lady from the store was desperate for me to take coffee with her and while we ate an icecream at her outdoor seat she bought out an array of scarves for sale. Instead of more purchases we watch the local lads gathering on their motorbikes who were in turn watching us. Many looked well under 18 and not too many helmets amongst them. From the store we took a tarmac road for about 1 km and more lads were turning up for the gathering, one pair almost playing chicken with us and pushing us off the road.
I was happy to leave the road but soon we were up a steep rocky path that seemed to go on forever. It was no means as hard as yesterday but because our bodies were so fatigued it was difficult. As we got nearer the top we heard the bikes again and soon realised there was a motocross race on and the local lads had probably come out to watch it. There was more up and then of course the inevitable down over a rocky path onto another well maintained mountain road. We were ambling along impressed with our progress and realised we were only about 2 kms from town. We were excited because we would be able to get out our wet washing in the sunshine and actually get it dry. However things changed quickly. Firstly we realised we had missed a turn but a look at the map showed us if we stayed on the road it would be an extra km but it would get us to town. Then it started to rain so we had to stop and put wet weather gear on. Then it stopped raining – gear off as we were too hot and then the road took us straight to a cafe/ house that wasn’t selling any food at all. The lady told us Doga camp was around her house further down the track. It was a narrow overgrown track and at one stage we had to go over a very difficult run down style which had been propped up by various walkers, then down a steep gully which almost meant sliding on our bums and onto the road – which was of course the road we were originally on the other side of the village, but where was Doga camp? After a few mins of discussion about whether it was up or down the road we noticed a sign Doga camp 2 kms. Off we walked frustrated that an hour ago we thought we were almost there. Then the next dilemma- the trail diverged off the road – take the trail 2km or take the road. I tried phoning Doga. No answer. I tried phoning the tour company no answer I tried WhatsApp her no connection. We decided to take the road because we thought it the most likely option given a car was delivering our suitcases. Eventually we found Doga. It’s a series of tiny huts 3×4 mts and camping platforms in the middle of nowhere- our cases were there on the back of a tractor. The shower (thankfully hot water) was of course right over the toilet which leaks and is so noisy we have to turn it off each time it fills. The restaurant of sorts is in a hut/ kitchen where the broken fridge is used as a cupboard and the insides are filled with bung filler to stop the drafts. It was a meal of canned tomato soup with virtually alphabet spaghetti and fairly dreadful meatballs and rice. No dining delight!! There are two doonas on the bed and we will need both as it’s extremely cold – I doubt they have been washed between the last number of users. It surprised us that another 10 guests arrived in dribs and drabs after 4.30 and all have been walking the other direction. Apparently it’s a tough day with tricky river crossings. What joyful news.
Jane treks Lycian Way 2022 