Day 24. Scary Saturday

After a somewhat ordinary breakfast but with the surprise of a few walnuts and dried figs we were on our way. To begin with the track was once again a reasonable road with great views but also with mist making photos difficult. We spied our camp from the other side of the valley

Soon the track went off road and through a pretty forest trail and then suddenly came out onto a road. There was a problem. It was about a 15 mt drop onto the road. We looked for an alternative but there wasn’t any other than back tracking some considerable distance to the road we had left as we were pretty sure it was the same road. In the end we took off our packs and threw them down and slid down on our bums. I have no idea how anyone with a full pack was able to go up from the road to the track. It was scary as you never know if it’s going to be a controlled slide and if you will hit a rock.

We followed the road for a bit and then it curved sharply around a cliff and we saw our next BIG problem. It was a cliff with scree and a 150 mt drop. The trail was a very narrow ledge with one point a log across a gap about 2 feet deep. You had to wedge yourself between cliff and log and get across to the narrow ledge on the other side. Starting and finishing was the worse as it was both a step down and step up with nothing much to hang onto to. We made it across and took a breather on more solid ground but then within 10 mts was a scree crossing of about 20-30 mtr once again with a 150 mt drop. I inched my way across trying not to think of anything but the few inches in front of each boot, and whether the ground felt solid. It was not the time for ‘what ifs’. I made it and watched Danny knowing his fear of heights is greater than mine. I saw him make it and his face crumbled for a couple of seconds. Emotionally he was drained and we both said it was the scariest thing ever and nothing old ever be that hard again. Seconds later he realised his phone was missing. It must have come out of his pocket at the log. I took of my pack and with just one pole took to the scree again. I somehow convinced myself I had done it once and could do it again. Unbelievably his phone was resting on the tiniest of rocks jutting out from the cliff in the middle of the log crossing. I knew I had to get down again into the crossing to get the phone as if I reached and missed, the phone or me or both would go. With phone firmly in my pocket it was back over the scree again telling myself not to rush it and just to concentrate as much as the first time. We both walked to safety and just sat and debriefed on what had just happened.

We meanders down towards the river and then struck the boulders. The trail crossed the river a number of times. Sometimes it was just stepping stones, others clamouring over huge boulders and then a log crossing which was not too bad but at the end it was a case of getting off the log in crouching position as the bolder above that you could hold onto had an overhang.

The final peril of this stretch was a climb down a rickety ladder of about 15 mtrs, the main trouble being that some of the rungs were a mtr apart so I actually had to lie flat on the ladder to reach the rungs. If I had had to go up I’m not sure how I would have managed. Just when I hit the bottom The Hare appeared and just went down with the grace of a 33year old. Danny then came down and we all had our photos together, it’s possibly the last we will see of him as we have decided not to walk tomorrow and he will move on.

Straight after the ladder is was a quick walk up onto the mountain and a km later a tent selling tea and snacks. The young man opens it for a couple of months a year and brings everything in on backpack. No wonder his prices were inflated but good on him for providing a service

It then seemed the real walk began. Once again a 4km hike up a mountain. Not as bad as a couple of days previously but still steep. At least the path was more clearly defined so we didn’t have to constantly check the GPS. Also there were a lot more switch backs, zig zagging up the mountain. They can be frustrating as you are aware that you are not making much distance but they often give at least a few metres of flat which is very welcome. We made it up over the top and then it was another 4 km down the other side also on zig zags and a lot more on loose rocks and shale. About three quarters of the way down we came across a very pretty water source on the edge of a spectacular view. A group of three had taken their drinks and nibbles up to take in the view and took our photo and then got me to hold their drink to pretend I had come to their party.

Then down into the gorge. Goynuk Gorge was extremely pretty with beautiful water. It was another 1.5 km to walk to the actual gorge which we were not doing. Instead we crossed the river on stepping stones which were slippery and Danny just took the easiest action and walked through in ankle deep water. We found the cafe area and for once with the best built and best organised cabanas. It was a couple of beers and a gozleme, at 3.30. We were worried that the Naturel Camp was going to be as basic as the Doga and that dinner would be meagre. There were beautiful geese in the water and zip lining adventures going on and the walk out had amazing natural wood sculptures. Another 3 km and we found our accommodation. Actually one of the best so far. A spacious room, a well organised place and friendly people. Only trouble no luggage. After several calls it was to arrive in another 1 1/2. One of the best dinners on tour, salmon from the Black Sea and it was filleted and also dessert and for once a white wine that was drinkable.

We have definitely decided not to walk tomorrow. It’s another really hard day going up to 1,800 mtr again. We really have done enough and we both have very sore feet. The beach is only 2 kms away. We will walk there and hopefully have a swim and a look at the town. We will go with the luggage at 4 pm and take the 1 hour drive in the car.