It was another really start with a bus coming to pick us up before 6am and it was very cold, -2C. We drove into Goreme and joined a row of hundreds of cars, buses and trailers winding their way through the hills to a flat area. Somehow our bus driver worked out were to go and we realised we were parked near a balloon in a row of many balloons being unpacked and gassed up. After being served a snack in the bus we were unloaded into the cold just as the sky was beginning to lighten and then asked to climb into the basket. No easy feat. A brief safety instruction about the landing position and we started moving up. It was far more gentle than expected and more noisy due to the gas and flame. Luckily we were in a compartment next to the pilot and navigator, so we got the warmth from the flame.
As we took off it was extremely busy with balloons jostling for position and many walkie talkies going to let each other know where they were. We also noticed that there seemed to be a model shoot going on in with the balloons as a backdrop. Young women in long flowing gowns running across the dirt being photographed. They must have frozen. We even saw what appeared to be a bride and groom having a photo shot. The ride was just spectacular, going quite high at some points but quite low in the valleys. The sun came up and put a sparkle on everything. Some ridges were lined with people who had paid to see the spectacle from ground level. It was really interesting to see the ground with so many little holes. Too small I think for rabbits but they must have another animal that burrows.
Eventually we landed and had a champagne ceremony. More berry and apple juice than champagne and were asked to tip the ground crew. They were good. We only had two bumps on landing and then the ground crew manoeuvred the basket complete with 28 people on board onto the trailer. We both felt that if there was one balloon flight to have in a life time we had picked the right one.
It was then back to our hotel for a quick breakfast before heading out on another bus to do the green tour of the valley, monastery and underground tunnels. Firstly it was an hours drive out of town to the ‘largest monastery’ in the area. Much like we had seen, caves inhabited over 1000s of years and a number of churches and quarters dug out and built. Apparently the section that was mainly for women (nuns) was once connected but now collapsed so we visited the male area. We were able to photograph the frescos this time and one showed the evil eye which actually seems to have harked back from Christians and Greeks rather than the Turkish – but they are claiming it. Also it was interesting to see that they had dug out communal dining rooms. Long stone benches either side of a long stone table. Then it was another long drive to the valley. I’m not sure of its significance but once again a valley with 12 churches in cave most of which have collapsed. It was a 3km walk through the valley which was very pretty and I couldn’t help wondering why we couldn’t have had some of that gentle walk on the Lycian Way. Then a lunch stop restaurant- trout for me and chicken casserole for Danny.
Another long drive. Its obviously a very expansive area and to the tunnels. This time a community and church underground and down lots of very narrow very low tunnels down over 65 mtrs. Danny sat this one out as for about 50 mts you had to crunch and walk to 1.3 mts in height. Luckily this time I didn’t bash my head but it was difficult. One of the young lads on tour baled as he became quite claustrophobic. It was one thing to walk down over 100 rocky dark steps. Quite another to climb up them. My heart was pounding. They let the bishops live in the lowest quarters for safety and had a number of safety techniques and booby traps for any enemies. They made and drank wine to keep them calm living most of their lives in underground tunnels. 40 minutes was enough for me.
It was then the usual stops, more look out points, tea and coffee and nut tasting and purchasing and then of course another over the top jewellery store. It was all young people on tour except us so of course we were targeted and couldn’t escape soon enough.
Home and a shower before hitting the restaurants. A young Irish couple on tour and staying in our town suggested a place they had used the night before. A man has just opened a medieval restaurant serving meat platters. We had the slow cooked brisket platter complete with baked potatoes, which was really good but we couldn’t do it justice. He tried to give us a free dessert but we were more than complete and ready for bed. It was a very long day. Cappadocia had given us much for the memory bank. A truely unique and fascinating place.
Jane treks Lycian Way 2022 