We looked at that mountain behind Kalkan and after inspecting the guide realised that we had to walk up over the mountain after an unpleasant stretch along a busy highway. We knew we didn’t have it in us and asked our host about buses. There was a bus going to Bezirgan which would get us up over the mountain and with about a 2-3 hour walk to Saribelen, our destination. That sounded fine by us. The first trick was finding the bus stop which was a 500mtr walk uphill and asking about 5 people on the way if we were going in the right direction. Eventually we got there with about 10 mins to spare and loaded on the mini bus with the locals. It’s a very tight squeeze in the mini buses especially if people lay their seats back which most seem to do. Luckily we got seats at the back and 3 between us so room for our packs. Then 20 minutes of heart in mouth while we winded up the mountain at breakneck speed, with sheer drop offs watching the bus driver chat on the phone for most of the journey. We stopped at Saribelen bus stop (no one told us we could actually stop there) and loaded on an old lady with 6 bags of produce. It was only 10 in the morning so not much point in us getting of and we drove on to Bezirgan up over another mountain. Off we got at it was a little village with a pretty ‘village green’ – a built up seating area around a shady tree. We took stock and then stocked up at the store with muesli bars, nuts and the last ice creams of the season that had seen better days. We found the trail and then a pathway which was blocked by a lady with 2 goats and had to wait for her to come our way before we could have our turn down the lane. She wasn’t a happy soul but I did manage to find a couple of figs on a tree nearby. Then it was up and up and over the road and up again watching the goats on the mountainside near us and a run away dog being chased along the road by his owner on a motor bike. I might say no one much wears helmets on motorbike and never on a push bike. We did see an accident from the bus – a motorbike V car. Most people free wheel it down hill on motorbikes and even cars to save on fuel.
Anyway we got up and over the hill and found ourselves on the road to Saribelen, the one we had come up on the bus. We decided to walk the road rather than scrambling up the remaining hill, and in retrospect it was a good choice as the path came down through a section that had been burnt 2days before. We had seen the water bombers 2 days before at Uzumlu and smelt the smoke. Our hosts in Saribelen had packed their belongings expecting to evacuate as the fire reach a point about 500 mts away. We can see the burnt mountain side from our room. About 200mtrs from our guest house we found a very hippy camping ground/restaurant and had lunch. It was adorned with scarecrows, a huge mask, tinkling bells, bunting etc. also the very familiar raised pergolas with curtains where families dine on cushions around a low table. There were a couple of men playing backgammon and drinking endless cups of tea. We had a plate of meatballs and a local pizza which is a dough a bit like a damper filled with tomato paste, cheese and herbs and cooked in a pan on an open fire. The owner took our photo for his Facebook page. Then it was up the road to our guest house the Mozaik where someone has decorated lots of walls and items with mosaic tiles. It’s run by a young couple. He’s French and she’s Turkish but they both lived in France for several years, so both speak fluent French, English and Turkish. He was a scientific chemist and she a cinematographer. He loves to cook and when she drove to Kalkan to pick up our luggage bought some fish for our dinner. He also made his own bread which is delicious.. We all ate together on the roof terrace with a couple from Germany but he was actually Russian and a Turkish friend of the owners. In the lounge corner was another Turkish couple who we’ve met along the way. They might have had a tin of tuna in their room. I think we have worked out they have also caught many buses. Their boots are just too clean. We had an evening stroll to the local store to pick up a couple of beers and a couple of large bottle of iced tea. It was a peaceful night in the country with no doof doof music but the mosque is just across the paddock and of course the 6 am call to prayer is on loud volume.
Breakfast was on the roof terrace again, complete with the yummy homemade bread and a fried egg. Then our host Oliver dropped us at Gokceoren, which was meant to be our end point but it made more sense to walk backwards and home to Saribelen rather than get to Gokceoren and have to phone Oliver to pick us up. The farmers where we started came out into the garden to make sure we had walking poles and to hand us grapes and apples, but before we started Danny realised he had left his hat behind at the house so we fashioned a bandanna for him from a triangular bandage we had in the medical kit that was in his bag. The Boy Scouts would have been proud.
After and initial up over rocky terrain we hit a very long flat stretch with wide open paths and through various paddocks and terraces. The most surprising thing today was the number of wells. Flat land with a ring of rocks and then just a well. Most we looked down had water and I’m not sure how the livestock doesn’t fall down them. Some had a bucket and string jammed in between the rocks and some had square cement trough along side where they obviously bucket the water for the livestock to drink.
At about our half way mark we came across a shepherds house. This man is famous for being friendly and welcoming to trekkers but he wasn’t home and about 200 mts on we saw him walking across the flat in front of his house yelling. I think he was calling to us but his voice was drowned out by a rock breaker at work down in front of his house. Either way we’re not turning back as I wasn’t in the mood for tea or salty yoghurt, but around the corner was a shelter with shady table and chairs so we sat and had a snack and the last of our iced tea. We both felt the sugary iced tea was a good change from the water. Soon the Russians came along and they were expecting the shelter to be a cafe so walked on disappointed. Then as we got up and left a few coins on the table along with some other contributions a walking party of English people came around the corner. Their Turkish guide explained that the rock crushing and new road was going straight through the Shepherd land and his lifestyle and land and 2000 goats were being told to move on. The shelter was in fact built there for the road workers who were crushing rocks and building the road. I told the tour leader to pick up the money and give it to the shepherd. I did see him pick it up. I only hope it got to the shepherd.
Oliver had pointed out a short cut home but for once we were ahead of time so we decided to take the main trail route which looped back around the town. We found a shady rock and ate our lunch provided by Oliver and I jokingly said it’s 1pm we only have 2km to go we will be home and in the shower by 2pm. Wrong. It was uphill, through prickly bush, constantly looking for markers, constantly checking GPS, occasionally having to double back, walking on pebbles they had filled the path with to stop the erosion and then to top it off a bum slide down passed the cemetery onto the main road. It was 2.15 by the time we got in the door.
We are not walking tomorrow. The planned stretch is described as long over grown, poorly marked and difficult along with wild boars and wolves. We are going in the car with our luggage to Kas we’re we also have a rest day planned and hopefully a boat ride. That’s if the weather holds. It was 26C today. Great trekking weather but it’s expected to rain for the next few days.
Once again the internet is too weak to load photos. I will have to try in Kas.