Jane treks Lycian Way 2022

This morning we met Aysegul our tour company owner. We were staying in her parents guesthouse and she came to pick us up and drop us at our next starting point in Cavdir. Once again an extremely hot day after a hot night where the temperature didn’t drop below 27C. we were however able to get a reasonable early start and after a stop by the shop for some snacks we were able to start walking at about 8.30. Asysegul told us that most walkers don’t start until after 9am and we were a bit of a rarity.

Our first stretch was through a grave yard and we have actually seen quite a few so far. I’ve frequently wondered how on earth they dig the graves in this hard rocky ground. It must be a horrible job.

Next we were up and onto a cliff edge looking out over the valley which they call a delta so I can only assume there is a river out there. The valley is covered in hothouses. I gather the land is very fertile but the best farming intensity has been gained by building hothouses to increase the crops of mainly vegetables. Aysegul informed us that the hothouses are the major employer in the region.

We soon realised we were on the aqueduct which goes for miles and we will also be on it tomorrow. Much of it is on the cliff edge and in parts it’s crumbling. Sometimes you are walking in the middle of it (it’s full of clay and limestone). Sometimes you are on the stone edge. We had to cross a bridge and in the photos it looks wide and stable but it wasn’t always and several steps were wobbly rocks. The trial goes along the aqueduct and is always branching out where the aqueduct has disintegrated and then back. Once again we were not only watching every step but also searching for markers. It’s slow progress.

Soon after we made a shortcut around a mosque we came across the path which was a channel in the old aqueduct. This was more recent, probably only 1000 years old rather than over 2000 years. In parts it was covered in foliage, and once again a lot of detours. The foliage is harsh. There are holly bushes, prickly acacias and thorny roses. Our arms and legs are covered in scratches and tomorrow might be a day for long pants.

The channel ended at a stream of gushing water, narrow but fast flowing. Several farmers are piping the water to their plots and houses. We were able to fill our water bottles, which once again were running low. It’s a very strange feeling. We are drinking a lot but we never seem able to quench our thirst. Usually small sips and often does it for me but this time it’s not working. I’m constantly thirsty.

A local farmer was sawing wood near where we filled our water bottles. Of course no English and quite disappointed that Danny didn’t have a smoke to give him. Nevertheless he decided to show us the way which was walking up the creek for about 300 mts. Danny graciously gave him a couple of coins for his efforts which he accepted but I realised they were Euros so not really sure how farmer joe will go spending those.

After traversing another ravine we were back on hilly rocky terrain and needing lots of rest stops as we picked our way through the rocks with lots of up and downs and lots of looking for markers. Eventually we were out on the road and on our way to our guest house at Uzumlu. It’s a nice guest house run by a nice family. Once again we are the only guests. The son works in software testing and is working from home and speaks very good English. Mum and Dad are both retired and spend half the year here running the guest house and the winter in Antalya where their house is heated by gas which is cheaper than the electricity used to heat this house. Once again a lovely pool which we used however I rather gather the family don’t drink so a cold beer is unlikely to be on the menu. The town is known for its grapes and wine and apparently there is a wine bar in town but I’m not that desperate to walk down another hill into town to try it out. Water will have to do, or every house offers coke and Fanta which I’m really not that desperate to have either.

Tonight we really will be eating around the table with the family as there is not separate dining area. I’m sure it will be an interesting and delightful experience. I bought a box of chocolate macadamia with me and have decided I’m giving them to the first host to offer me Turkish delight. Maybe tonight might be my lucky night.

Nope. No Turkish delight. No dessert. They have soup every evening all year round. Tonight’s was lentil, then salad then chicken with pilaf and cabbage rolls and green peppers and red capsicums stuffed with rice. Then Turkish coffee

Having made the decision not to walk, we had a late breakfast. Plenty of salads, jams, honey, cheese, dried figs and walnuts and then TOASTED bread and a cheese omelette served from the pan. The day was spent walking from pool to bedroom and no further. An inspection of Danny’s knee last night and a new dressing confirmed it seems to be going in the right direction but we both have scratches and bruises. Mine host managed to rustle up a couple of tuna salad sandwiches on toasted bread and 2 cold beers for lunch, which we scoffed by the pool. Even in this very remote place we can still here a nearby mosque and the call to prayer is on loud speaker throughout the valley. Sometimes the tape recording works other times it doesn’t and you get 10-15 mins of scratchy microphone with maybe a word every thirty seconds. It really does sound like someone is strangling the mufti and then he fights back to life again.

A look at the guide book indicates that today we are missing some of the most famous ruins along the way. Apparently an amphitheatre much older than the one in Rome but we figured we didn’t know what it looked like before we came to Turkey and we probably still won’t know when we leave, but we have a fair idea of what it may look like. It’s nearly 6.30 and I reckon there’s another G&T with my name on it.

For once we were able to get an earlier start to the day with breakfast at 7.30. Instead of the compulsory omelette we were given a poached egg along with the usual, cheese tomato cucumber olives jams tahini paste bread etc, etc. We were on the road soon after 8am and within 2 minutes trying to make decisions between the guide book, gps, and signs. In the end we were pointed up the road by an old villager who I had notice yesterday on her outside loo contemplating life. She had sent up on the road walking which was longer but easier and probably cut some time as eventually we did see the trek come in and it would have been a difficult scramble up onto the road.

Our first village was Bel about an hour away but we were all stocked up with water and a packed lunch so we walked through and started a walk through a forest. It was difficult even here to define the path at times as there are so many goat and sheep trails. It’s a constant search for markers and in these mountains there wasn’t a phone signal so no GPS. We came across a young German couple who were doing the walk East to West. They assured us that in a few days it gets a bit flatter. Fingers crossed they are right

Soon after the fun began. Downhill on a rocky steep decline for over 2 hours. One again picking our way slowly constantly searching for markers and in hot sun with little shade. We weren’t doing too badly for the first hour, the intensity was mainly in the concentration of looking for markers and watching where each step went as you didn’t know whether the rock would hold or whether it would be slippery. Some dirt footholds looked safe, some had a fine layer of silt that caused a slip. Then Danny had a fall and soon after we took a wrong track and I ended up sliding on scree and Danny behind me also sliding. We gathered ourselves and our belongings under a rock and about 10 mins later I hiked back to our last marker and found the right path. We then had to make our way across to the path slipping and sliding. Another rest. Both of us were spent. We were hot and sweating, our legs feeling like jelly with no strength and our water running out and not any indication of how much further. At one stage we had to climb down a narrow path about 40 cms wide and a steep drop off. It was harrowing but at the bottom it was at least shaded and we had another rest. We figured we had about 500mls of water each and 2 oranges. For the last 2 hours we were not able to pick up a GPS signal either. Around the corner of the ravine we could at last see the valley floor and the village we were heading towards and after another 40 mins finally came out onto level ground and a shop. The family welcomed us in and we both had a sprite, it was that or coke or salty yoghurt. We managed to stock up on another 2 litres of water each and the lady even gave us ice for our bottles along with grapes and pomegranate. We probably were sitting there for 20 mins just willing ourselves to cool down. The next hour or so was mainly road walking, once again with not much shade. We then headed off road towards Pydnai ruins, more rocks and piCking our way along I’ll marked paths. The entrance to the ruins was through a short gate and Danny looked like Pooh Bear visiting Piglet. Then he had too falls. I was worried he was really losing it when he walked off from the second fall without his poles and hat. We stumbled through the ruins and obviously had lost the track again. We could see where we needed to be but there was a large stretch of reeds and a lagoon between us and the main road. We say stepping stones through the reeds and came to the lagoon. We had thought the stones might go all the way but they didn’t. A man saw us from the other side and went and got his paddle and bOat and came and got us. I might say he was in his green undies that weren’t exactly holding everything in but I was more concerned with the fact that Danny fell into the boat and nearly tipped man and me out. He landed on his pack and how he didn’t punch a walking pole through the boat I don’t know. We handed the bloke $10 and he immediately said beer. After walking across a plank around someone’s gate we found the main road and a bus stop, no chair but a piece of cement under a eucalyptus tree where we waited to be picked up. The 20 min wait time stretched into 50 mins and it was all we could do to stem the panic. Our ride came and we were both wet through with sweat and covered in dirt from our falls. Another 30 mins drive and we were at the guest house. Thankfully our suitcases had been delivered to our room as we could hardly get ourselves up the spiral staircase. The house is nice with a pool and dinner and breakfast on the terrace. Nothing like a shower and a gin and tonic to brighten things up.

It took us half a gin and tonic and a check of the temperature for tomorrow (36C) to decide to stay put and rest up and swim tomorrow. We really are in the middle of nowhere. No bus no village so we will be confined to house and pool. Our hosts don’t speak English but their 12 yo grandson has come to stay for the weekend and he speaks impeccable English. Dinner was the usual array of salads dips, vegetables and then meatballs and rice. Danny is even getting to like the eggplant which we get at least 2 ways every meal.

The day started with another amazing array of breakfast dishes, enough to feed a small village. The trouble was once again the earliest we could get it was 9am and we were seated next to a tour group who are doing yoga morning and night and walking about 5-6 kms a day. They also were not happy with the spread on offer, wanting espresso coffee and toast. After discussing the trail with their tour guide we decided the gruelling up and downhill was going to be too much for Danny’s knee, possibly splitting it open every step. We made arrangements to go with the luggage and get out at Alinca knowing there was some road walking for about 5 kms. The car was due in 1 hour which was just as well as the hotel had forgotten to do our washing the night before and we had to take it semi dried. We went out to get in the car oh oh trouble it’s a small Corolla or similar, no the bloke keeps walking to a 4 wheel drive, oh okay, no he keeps walking to a beaten up old red thing with bald tyres and no springs. There was great contemplation about how to fit the luggage but with a bit of twine the boot was closed – well sort of. The driver had brought along his friend for company so we then had to fit 4 in the car. Danny tried squeezing into the back seat but no couldn’t fit. He got prime front row but conveniently left his pack on my lap with me. At least he got a seat belt. The 2 men got in. They haven’t been told about parmolive gold over here. Just as well the windows were stuck permanently open. It was an hour of panic. Firstly we were skidding uphill as there was not enough engine power on those bald tires to get up the hills. A few handbreak starts and we were on our way, with several run ups for other hills. Then over the mountains and around hairpins on a one lane wide road with traffic in both directions. The cars seem to play chicken to see who is going to give way first. I was probably lucky that I really couldn’t see through 2 packs on my lap but I could see the knuckles on Danny’s hand hanging on for dear life so I knew it was pretty terrible. 50 mins of trying not to panic. We off loaded and tipped him $20 for the joy ride and mumbled something about putting it towards a new re-tred.

We did manage to walk about 5kms on a road and came across a village with a park bench so decided sit and have some fruit. It wasn’t long before we both felt like we were being bitten and decided it was probably fleas from the cats and dogs coming to check the strangers out. We moved on.

Soon after our driver went by giving us a toot, while we walked to the next village which advertised a shop. We thought we would have an ice cream but they were all gone and the freezer not working but the lady did offer us a can of beans.

We crossed the road and started on the final section to Sidyma which was a long uphill sometimes on a pebbled road but mainly picking our way steeply over steep rocky paths. The markers were few and far and it was really hard to find the trail as it was just a series of goat trails and there were lots of goats around. It was hard. We both needed lots of pauses to get the heart rate down and the jelly legs to settle. Thank god for the gps. It actually shows if we are about 10 mts off the trail and we were constantly doubling back. We made it passed the famous ruins but I was beyond caring. We made it inti Sidyma and a mumma came out to greet us and point us in the direction of Fatima at Sidyma House. It was a short cut which was a long cut as it was another maize of rock walled tracks. Fatima runs a house with 3 rooms and showed us the best. It’s a tiny shack in the back yard. We have a net curtain over door to keep the mosquitoes out and similar over the window but no glass. The roosters a locked in a cage 5 mts away but I wouldn’t put it pass one of the cat to jump in. There is an outdoor table to eat at. We have asked her to pack us lunch tomorrow as it looks to be 8;hours of walking and no shops. Heavens only know what we will get for dinner, breakfast or lunch, it will be an adventure. Just like the welcoming drink was an adventure. We were offered tea, thought we had asked for water and ended up with a salted yoghurt drink. I somehow don’t think Fatima runs to 2 beers and my guess is that it might be goat on the menu.

After being woken by the call to prayer at 5.45 the day began. It seemed like it was only a few hours since the market sellers had shut down and turned off the music. It probably was as I could remember them being still at it after midnight. Our tour company promised to pick us up and drop us at the start of the walk. We were anxious when they didn’t arrive and eventually after a few phone calls we were dropped at the staring point at 9.40. Not great as usually by that time we have at least got an hour under our belts. We knew the first section was uphill but we were both surprised at how steep and how long and how difficult it was. The guide said it would be 1:30 hours uphill but we still hadn’t reached the top in 2 hrs. That was a first for us we always beat the recommended time. I have to say it took us 5 mins to find the start of the track. Even though there is a big sign designating the start the actual trail start was not obvious and not marked. After a relentless uphill it flattened out a little but continued on goat tracks and picking our way over rocks and loose shale. No way to pick up any speed. As with most trails the guide book goes one way, the signs go another and this time we also had a GPS. It’s guess work much of the time and not unusual to take the wrong guess. We found ourselves on the narrowest of slippery tracks with a steep drop off and at one time having to climb over fallen telegraph poles, followed by another steep uphill that nearly wiped us out. Eventually we found a lunch stop and a litre of iced tea. Then it was another 2 hours of picking our way downhill both slipping at times on the shale. We made it into Faralay, which was meant to be our lunch spot and it was now 3pm with at least another 3 hours to go. The cafe that we stopped at just happened to be a bus stop and there were no doubts between us especially when we found out that the bus to Kabak (our hotel) left in just 20 minutes. We’ve rarely not made it before and never on day 1, so it was very mixed feelings – relief, failure, justification that we were listening to our bodies, disappointment, satisfaction we had done enough. It was all there.

Our hotel was a series of bungalows built on cliff over looking the water but a long way from it. There was a delightful pool so after a quick shower I went to take the washing to be done and returned to collect a towel and Danny but he was lying on the bathroom floor with a large gash on his knee. He had slipped getting out of the shower which was in a spa bath. Although he said he knocked his head it wasn’t hurt but the knee in normal circumstances would have taken a stitch or three. We are going to have to manage with steri strips and tape. I at least have some antibiotics if it gets infected. It will be difficult to mend as every time he bends his knee it will pull open.

I did have a swim while Danny sat nursing his wounds and later it was dinner on the decking that wobbles every time someone walks by and is home to about 5 cats. Cats are everywhere. Dinner was a feast. Salads, dips, potatoes and bread, followed by a mild curry almond soup and grilled fish and then fruit.

Tomorrow looks tough. We will decide on our options in the morning. Earliest breakfast is at 9am. Either way it’s going to be a late start.

It was such a long day yesterday and the panic of our luggage not turning up added to the fatigue. I set the alarm in case we over slept but I needed have bothered as pre dawn there was the call to prayer. It seemed like it was just outside our window. In Italy we always seemed to score the room next to the church bell, here it’s the mosque. Breakfast was served near the pool and the Turkish do breakfast well. We were served some hot things. Omelette, gozleme, sausage French toast and also a huge platter – olives, cheeses, jams, tomatoes, cucumbers etc.

The hotel owner suggested we head up to the ruins and lakes via the drapery shop to buy some bathers and shorts while she would wait for our luggage. She lent us some towels. The first stall we came to Danny picked up some board shorts for $7.50, and then we found another stall selling bathers for me and boardies as well as thongs. We did go into the drapers which was a modern air conditioned multi storied building with many staff watching our every move. On our way in a bus load of Japanese tourists were exiting with bags of brand labelled stuff. We were told to halve the price as the tickets were only for the bus groups. Still I wasn’t after Gucci.

We tried to find a taxi to the ruins- the Heirapolis – but in the end the store owner took us for a fee – in his Mercedes and we changed into our new attire in the toilets. A real balancing act as the floors are always wet!!! It was hard going walking the ruins in the thongs but worth the up hill battle to the amphitheater. In some ways it was better than the colosseum in Road. Smaller but more in tact.

Half way between the travertine (the salt lakes) and the ruins we found cleopatras pool. Clear thermal water and quite a fast flow. After navigating the ticketing and locker systems we were in hoping that our new bathers would not disintegrate, but they lasted the hour or so we had floating and resting on fallen sunken pillars.

Next we negotiated the walk down through the salt lakes which are fed buy the water from cleopatras pool. The lakes have white powdery muddy bottoms and the walk between them is steep and slippery at times. You have to do it in bare feet and where the ground is weathered it’s agony on the feet. Still we made it down to the village lunched on pide and chips and got to our hotel where the owner had two thumbs up. Our luggage had arrived.

It was then a $1.40 mini bus ride back to Denizli, and a 4 hour bus ride to Fethiye. The landscape is pretty barren and very mountainous. Parts remind me of the blanchtown plain In SA and the Flinders rangers with small stunted trees, although I think they have more rainfall here.

We arrived in Fethiye in the dark but it’s a pumping seaside town with major shopping and jam packed markets. Our hotel is right in the middle of the markets in the old part of town. The noises was right on our doorstep until at least midnight and yep the call to prayer at 5.45am. The walk starts today. With luck we will be staying in a sleepy village tonight

We left The apartment around 6.30 and unfortunately our local baker didn’t open until 7am so we missed our last croissant. The train station was packed with early commuters but we manage to find half a seat and grimly held onto our bags while all the time watching out for pickpockets. There are warnings over the load speakers at every train station and every tourist attraction. We were half way to the airport when the train decided to go a different way so offloaded all the airport traffic. Of course the Turkish air counter just happened to be the further most from the train station so another 15 minute walk and we were booking in. Breakfast in the airport and we were on board. Soon after we saw the familiar sight of technicians coming out to the plane and received the familiar notice from the pilot that there was a technical fault. Not again. Yes another nearly 2 hours on the tarmac and eventually we were off. I asked the hostess if we were likely to make our connection to Pamukkale given our transit had reduced from 2:25 to 30 minutes. No problems she said but what she failed to take into account that probably due to our late arrival time they had trouble finding a spare gate to dock. Our only saving grace was that were were in row 10 only 3 back from business class and quick to get off. Off we ran and even though we were told we would be clearing customs in Denizli (the airport closest to Pamukkale) we had to clear a domestic customs and a transit station. The first corridor we ran along was at least 500mt with about 6 travellators but sometimes people clog these and it’s just easier to run the corridor. We were up elevators, down elevators, through passport control, through security where Danny once again had to take several attempts taking off shoes watch belt phone etc. In desperation he grabbed everything and ran bags open belt dangling holding up his pants from falling down around his ankles, yelling “I feel sick, I think I’ve left my phone behind”. I was not sure if I was going to laugh or cry but I just tried to keep running. Of course gate G9 was right at the further most point. I was still trying to keep it together when I saw Danny about 25 mts ahead of me trying to run the wrong way down a travellator. He somehow had a mental block and forgot the traffic goes on the right hand side in Europe. Just too funny for words. He looked like an old road runner cartoon and he was still holding those trousers up. We made it. They let us on and shut the doors I was a pool of sweat gasping for air and water. I think finally as we came into land an hour later my heart rate had finally settled. We disembarked and were shunted between domestic and international transit to go through customs but the customs officers had all gone home so we walked through. No passport check, no checking our special €60 visas no checking our vaccine certificates, and yes no luggage. There was also no lost baggage claim area so eventually I asked the guy in the duty free shop to take us to the information counter. He simply walked us around the back of the security screen and out into the arrivals hall to the information booth, no screening of our backpacks. They found our luggage in Istanbul – it couldn’t run as fast as we could. We navigated the ATM found our courier who had almost given up on us and jumped in the transport to Pamukkale. We shared the shuttle with two others who informed us they were Russian. I said to Danny “Maybe Olya would say remember the Major in Fawlty Towers”. Olya is our neighbour and she is Ukrainian and the Major in Fawlty Towers was always saying “don’t mention the war”. We had a great hotel in Pamukkale with a nice pool that we didn’t use but a great beer garden and cold beers which we did use. We tried not to think of our alternatives should our luggage not turn up.

On our last day in Paris we had tickets booked for Monets garden but we realised it would mean a 7am start on the metros and trains and we were both a bit over early mornings and we know there will be plenty ahead of us as we tend to get reasonably early starts when trekking. Instead we took it easy in the morning, did our washing and headed to the railway station to buy tickets to the airport tomorrow. We then found the pompadou centre which is famous for its architecture with all utilities on the outside. Red for lifts, blue plumbing/water, green air conditioning etc. We walked to Bastille and besides the monument I was surprised it led onto a canal with many houseboats some of which we gathered were permanent residences. It was a really pretty area. It was then a walk along the river dodging all the Sunday morning joggers while they were concentrating on not twisting an ankle on the very old and uneven cobblestones. We walked through little island buying an ice cream from a recommended vendor- yes delicious and then onto the big island to Notre Dame. It’s amazing, both the damage from the fore and the restoration works. The buildings down the sides are so close they must have been terrified. It’s incredible the fire didn’t spread and knock out most of the neighbourhood. €900 million was raised in donations to restore it and every stone has been lifted from the rubble, it’s been worked out where it might have fallen from cleaned, numbered and put aside until it can be replaced. It’s hoped it will be open for the olympics but they have a long way to go.

It was then over to the left bank and the Latin quarter, Shakespeare bookshop where many down and out writers found a bed and companionship until they could afford to move on and a walk around the streets of the Sorbonne. We were looking for a restaurant that came recommended but one we found it were disappointed it was all indoors so we doubled back to one we had seen on a sunny balcony overlooking a tiny square with fountain but also the gathering point for the homeless. We ate and drank while watching them do deals in smokes and cups of alcohol..

On a whim we decided to try our luck on our unused Arc de Triumph tickets and were ushered through to face the bottom of a winding staircase which certainly got the blood pumping. Many oldies had stopped along the way to catch their breath but I was determined to make in one go. I have to admit I did feel ever so giddy and sick at the top. Coming down was not much easier as it’s definitely harder on the arthritic knee. I train ride home and then a search on for a late night bowl of French onion soup. We found it but then spat chips when the waiter informed us the last 2 bowls had just been served. We settled for ham and cheese on toast topped with a fried egg! Not dissimilar to some Sunday night dinners I’ve had in the past but not a great note to finish our dining in Paris.

I’m still playing catch up on Paris. It was very busy there and not much time to write. Our down time was sitting in bars watching the world go by and lots and lots of walking.

We had great intentions of taking our picnic lunch to Versailles and we were packed up but it virtually started a light drizzle as soon as we set off. We lined up with many on the train platform and then came the announcement that the train was cancelled and the platform emptied. We stayed thinking we would just wait for the next one and would you believe they found a replacement train within 6 minutes. Versailles is huge. What can I say. Completely over the top. Crowds of people even on a wet day. I lasted about 10 minutes before sensory overload hit me. I can only take in so much gold paint, crowded rooms, portrait 3 and 4 high on every wall, statues and sculpture, marble, mirrors and grandeur. I even lost the ability to imagine how people lived in such surrounds. Eventually I just saw opulence and the arrogance of one man, Louise XIV who wanted to biggest and the best of everything because he could. I couldn’t stop thinking of what life was really like for those that lived over the fence. The gardens and the building architecture were of course magnificent and we were lucky to see the fountains in action but somehow it all left me a little depressed. I could certainly understand why there was a revolution. Greed always comes back to bite you in the end.

We spent considerable time that day chasing tickets to the football in England. It was the day we could enter the ballot and we had intended on using Versailles wifi but of course we picked the day their wifi was down and by the time we got home the ballot had sold out. We did however manage to buy some through a package deal we were told about by a Scottish family we met in Heathrow. The rest of the day was spent wandering the streets dining, drinking and people watching.

Our journey started well with an easy trip to Sydney airport and getting on the plane to Perth. Unfortunately Qantas had changed our flight about a month before and we were faced with a 5 hour transit in Perth. Luckily we were able to have a shower in the lounge and then on to an evening direct flight to London of 17 hours. The flat bed in business was a life saver. I’m sure I couldn’t do that flight in economy but landing in Heathrow the fun began. We knew it would be a long transit as we landed soon after 5am and our flight to Paris was not due until 1.30pm. There is only so many times you can walk from one end of the terminal to the other. Our lucky break was that we talked with a Scottish family for about an hour and they showed us a new website that sold packages to the football in England should we not be able to buy tickets in the ballot when they become available in a few days. Eventually boarding our flight one hour late, we stayed on the tarmac while they continuously checked the engines. Then two hours later they offloaded us all. Back onto the buses and back into the terminal. We waited again another hour for a new plane. Back onto the buses back onto the new plane and another 2 hour wait on the tarmac waiting for new staff. By this stage the babies and children on board had had enough. The little Romanian 3 year old in front of us lost it completely and was rewarded by a belting from both parents. Needless to say that didn’t settle him at all. Eventually we arrive at Charles de Gaulle at 10pm and then navigated the trains and the 15 minute walk to our Airbnb in the Marais area. We had trouble finding the door and every code we tried didn’t work. Eventually a couple of girls let us into the building but once again there were no key pads on the doors to open our apartment. I contacted the owner and I was told to walk another 500 metres around the corner to another address, access that building, access the key pads and access the keys to our apartment. It was recommended that the luggage stay with one person while this was done. The only saving grace was that the streets were packed and it was not scary. By 11.30pm we had entry!! I had booked the apartment based on the reviews about the bed, the shower, the washing machine and the location. Thankfully It delivered on all of those but we calculated it had been 50 hours since we had left our home in Sydney. It proved to be a great little home for a Paris stay with oodles of restaurants and bars right at our front door as well as a great supermarket and a fantastic boulingerie (bakers) a few doors away – and it opened at 7am each day..

Our first day in Paris was bright and sunny but cool. We were only about 300-400 mts from the Seine, so we walked along it’s banks to get orientated and then used our boat pass to view life from the river. Our initial thoughts of Paris were that they really are not bothered by Covid. There is hardly a mask to be seen, no social distancing and very few sanitisation stations. Very different to Aust. We also noticed the lack of rubbish. It’s very clean and of course no masks lying around on the ground. They other thing we noticed was the lack of children. Very different from Italy, Spain and Portugal where kids abound. We stopped for lunch across the river from the Eiffel Tower and lucked on a great restaurant that served delicious salads. Mine was salmon and prawns washed down with a glass of Rose. A fine start. Next it was over to the Eiffel Tower and checks through security. I watched the bloke in front of me having to bin 3 bottles of wine. Not sure if he was thinking of having a party at the top or if he was going to throw them over the railing and see what happened. Our upset was that the 3rd (top) level was closed due to staff shortages, so it was the second level only for us. It still is a spectacular view and the day was clear. We boated it back to our hotel and prepared for Moulin Rouge

Feeling as if we had worked out the metro system we headed out but we managed to stuff up the first move and catch the train going the wrong way. We jumped off but had to exit the station to get to the other track. Then we were faced with barriers that didn’t work and I was stuck on one side and Danny the other. Just mild panic for a moment. It made that drink in the bar next to the show all that sweeter! The show was pretty amazing. We had excellent seats, the stage was in touching distance. We had meal and show tickets courtesy of my kids, and the meal was better than anticipated for a crowd of about 600. The bottle of champagne helped also. Despite a pretty piss poor lead in act by two singers who would be hard pressed to get a job on the love boat the show girls and guys were outstanding. They actually looked like they enjoyed performing and were having fun. The costumes were spectacular and the acts diverse. In one part the stage descended and a huge aquarium raised with about 6 huge pythons in it and a girl swam and danced with them. As we left at 11pm the 11.30 supper show people were lining up. We were just needing to nudge each other on the way home so as to keep awake and not miss our stop.

The next day it was an early walk to the Louvre to get on the 9 am line up. Once inside and through the security checks it was a hasty dash to see the Mona Lisa and I’m glad we didn’t muck around as by the time we got to the front to see her there was a queue of possibly 100 people behind us. Danny has brought a toy from both Rossco and Freddie and they are being photographed visiting the sites along with us. We spent another couple of hours at the louvre and continued to get lost. I’ve decided that visit art galleries and museums is a bit like wine tasting, you can only do so much before the sensors are overloaded and everything starts looking/tasting the same. We did find Napoleons apartments which of course were opulent and over the top.

In the afternoon we took ourselves on a self guided tour of Montmartre and despite the crowds the place still has its charm. It’s easy to imagine life of the artists stumbling along the narrow streets frequenting the bars and trying to make a living and their steps up the fame ladder. We knew the streets were steep and narrow but we were not prepared for the very steep and long winding stair case out of the metro. Certainly raised the heart rate and got the legs ready for hill climbing. Then more climbing and walking with the street food walking group. While good it was not as good as we have experienced in both Florence and Budapest. Still we did get to try pates, cheeses, hams and sausages, crepes, macaroons and chocolates and plenty of bread. The wine, sparkling and cognac were all pretty average.

Going to see if this will publish now. Often adding photos throws things off. Will try and catch up on rest of Paris later today as the walk begins tomorrow